Next up on our Greek odyssey was Sifnos. Randy and I had gone to Sifnos 7 years before when Adam was two and a half and Malcolm was six months. We were staying in nearby Serifos, the more rural, less popular, sister island, and came to Sifnos for a day trip. Because I love a throwback here are a few pictures from our first trip to Sifnos in 2015.
For this trip, because there were no direct ferries from Tinos to Sifnos, we had a few hours layover in Mykonos and all in all the trip took all day, but we made the best of it. All that was open for our layover (and reachable on foot with all our children and luggage) was a coffee shop at the ferry terminal so we decided to order one of everything. This moment was the moment where I knew Randy had changed during his years as a father. In years past he would have wanted to try to find a better restaurant and dragged the kids, me, and the luggage to wherever it took to find a great restaurant. I was secretly worried this would be what Randy wanted to do, but he looked at me, looked at the luggage and looked at the children and agreed with me that the cafe would do just fine and we ended up enjoying every minute of a relaxed ferry layover full or crappy food and wine.
Happy with our decision.
When we arrived, like every place I have ever been to in Greece, it was well worth the trip. We were staying right outside of Castro and had breakfast on our patio every day looking at Castro.
Of course we headed right to the beach. Sifnos is much trendier and more crowded than Tinos so we had to plan ahead for our lunches and to get beach chairs, no problem for expert beach loungers.
That night we headed to Apollonia, a cute town up behind our house and went to Drakakis cafe, one of the island’s oldest coffee shops.
The food was delicious! Only in Greece could I convince Randy to get three different vegetable dishes! Living my best life. We walked around town after dinner and got ice-creams and dessert for the kids. Towns in Greece come to life so late, they are usually jsut waking up when we are leaving dinner, but I would much prefer to put the kids to bed and hang out on our patio for a bit after bed. Best of both worlds, no crowds at dinner, walk in town when things are getting busy and then home for some time to hang out on the balcony.
The next morning I went for another hilly run. I love running in new places, it lets me really get to know the area. I will say Greece hills were almost the death of me, but I survived!
And I had this view each time on my return.
We tried a new beach the next morning called Vathy beach. It was a small beach set inside mountains on each side. a little wavy, but beautiful and not crowded.
The best part by far of this beach was this amazing little restaurant that was right at the other end of the beach called Tsikali. You walk up and the tables and chairs are right on the sand. We sat thinking the meal would be pretty good, but the meal was amazing! Turns out this little hole in the wall on the beach makes all their own cheese and raise their own live stock. This happens a lot in Greece, you sit down at an unassuming little place and only after do you appreciate how perfect it is. Every bit of food is paid so much attention and is delicious. On top of that they are right on the beach so the kids could swim and play while we enjoyed a yummy long lunch. A little slice of heaven that is so Greek! They think of the entire experience and really know how to create a meal that is meant to linger and be enjoyed.
Heaven for these two who had bites of yummy dessert in between dips in the ocean.
The only downside to our house in Sifnos is there was only air conditioning in the landing, where Adam’s bed was. These little ones and Randy and I had to sleep like I used to in Greece 30 years ago and hope for cool nights! I remember those hot nights where even a sheet was not needed and it makes me nostalgic, then I remember how much better things are with air conditioning!
The next morning we headed back to the same Vathy beach and yes back to the same restaruant and we didn’t want to leave the beach so stayed late until sunset and then we went straight to dinner in town and some ice-creams on a rooftop. Pretty fantastic day!
We then decided to try a new beach called Platis Gialos. It was a busier than Vathy beach but also beautiful, calm and full of great restaurants. We got chairs from Yalos restaurant with the agreement that we eat lunch there. We agreed because we know the value of a good beach chair and in the end were suprised at how delicious the lunch was. The food was so sophisticated for a little beach restaurant!
The next day we headed back to Platis gialos because we had a reservation at Omega 3, an awesome restaurant that some say is the best fish restaurant in Greece and for Greeks that is no small thing! This place was great and different. They had creative different takes on Greek food and great wine and the kids amused themselves in the little store next door that is so Greek. Right on the beach, full of candy, snacks, drinks and every plastic toy a child could ever want.
Born to be fine diners, except Malcolm was a little upset there wasn’t any plain pasta on the menu. Come on Omega 3! Know your audience.
We made it home to shower before sunset and got dressed up for dinner. We headed to an Italian restaurant in the main town called Mamma Mia. The kids were so happy to have some pizza and pasta! We ended the night going back for some ice-cream on the rooftop.
Because we are creatures of habit, wanted a beach chair, loved the beach and the restaurant we headed back to Vathy beach. The meal was just as yummy and we stayed for even longer relaxing and watching the kids play in the beach.
After that we went to Castro, the small pedestrian town at the other end of the island. We headed to Cantina, a new popular restaurant by the same chef as Omega 3. After a sweaty walk into town we realized it was actually under the Castro in a little cove that involved some stairs. Randy promised me he would carry Miral if she fell asleep and it was definitely worth the walk. It was in this little cove with only a few other houses built right into the cliff. The food was amazing, the kids spent hours playing on the beach and the view was spectacular. I vaguely remember some child (Miral…) throwing a tantrum or too but I mostly remember how delicious the fish we ate was, the great wine we had and the kids playing cards and building rock towers on the beach.
The restaurant is the little white building on the right bottom in the cove. We walked from this sign and made it!
Maybe I should have seen from this picture that Miral was not in the mood for a long slow meal….
The next day we were back on Platis Gialos and Yalos restaurant for another great beach day and a yummy lunch! This lunch even ended in a trip to the before mentioned store where ice-cream and various overpriced plastic things were purchased. When I used to go to Greece as a child I vividly remember those moments when I was allowed to buy something from the store and how exciting it was, so I am all in. Even if that 11 dollar mermaid was lost before we left Greece, it provided lots of joy during it’s short life.
For our last night in Sifnos we headed to a crab restaurant in Appolonia, which was as great as all our food in Sifnos and we of course ended our last night with an ice-cream trip in Appolonia. Sifnos was such a beautiful island but the best part for us was the food, such amazing food on all levels and all types. I am still dreaming of sitting on that beach having lunch at Tsikali with my awesome dinner dates.
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