Modena and its Discontents

In Modena there is this amazing little hole in the wall trattoria. To be honest, it was the top reason we went to Modena. The cathedral would be great to see and all, but when Batali says “If there is one stop on your trip to Italy, wherever in Italy, it must be here…”, then I become a man obsessed. I forced Fo out of bed (again) and forced her to drive me (I don’t drive stick) to Modena early in the morning.


The place was incredible. Hidden on the back streets, away from the prying eyes of dusty tourists, this place had it all. Vintage wine bottles galore and all sorts of Italian specialities.

It had one other quality. Its closed on Tuesday (example 1 of “discontent” (see title)). Hungry wife is mean wife. Which means blood sugar needs to be raised asap before Modena plans are in the gutter. So we prodded along and found a reasonable restaurant with reasonable pasta, which equalled reasonably happy wife (not ecstatic husband).
But we were there for other reasons as well! UNESCO World Heritage Cathedral! On we went until we reached said cathedral:

Yup. That’s scaffolding (discontent example 2). And no entrance inside because apparently even cathedrals are no-goes during siesta time.
Don’t get me wrong. Modena was a beautiful city. Probably even prettier than Bologna. We are really happy we went. I even got to make fun of Fo when she accidentally poured half a bottle of olive oil onto her caprese salad. And we had some other great moments too.


— Randy

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